Depending on how you orient the Mega Jul it can operate as a standard or assisted locking device while rappelling. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, For more information on what data is contained in the cookies, please see our Privacy Policy page. If you use (and rappel with) half or twin ropes frequently that are 8mm or under, you will be happier using the Micro Jul over the Mega Jul. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. 8d) instead of attaching it to the rear of the device only as when securing with two ropes (8b/e)." During rappels face the green thumb loop away from you and the Mega Jul claims a unique ability to auto-lock. It's also very carabiner dependent, and we noticed a 35% difference between the best and worst biners we tried—the Petzl Attache performed the best and is what we used in the official test. Just be sure to employ a backup prusik knot when not using it with the thumb hook facing away from you. In spite of its small size, the Mega Jul is a very versatile device. Mega Jul Sport rappel Just got a Mega Jul sport belay device and am curious if any one uses it on a regular basis to belay/rappel. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. The above diagram is from the Edelrid Mega Jul manual (downloaded 2/1/2016), describing how to belay a second climber from an anchor. [Photo] Andrew Councell. Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. 95-$49.00 $ 49. The Mega Jul from Edelrid is considered a "passive" assisted braking belay device. It feels identical to rappelling with my Pivot. Easily belay either When securing a top rope climber with a single rope, the carabiner must be attached to the rope loop and through the device (Fig. The securing device must be attached at the fixed point by means of the attachment (Fig. Weighing in at 2.3 oz, it's also light and affordable. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. Super lightweight, assisted braking, guide mode belay option, Stainless Steel vs Aluminum construction, and very affordable pricing make this thing a winner. 1-800-953-5499 (US and Canada) The Mega Jul can also function in auto-block mode to bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs. Check great and honest reviews! The Mega Jul… Edelrid Jul 2 Belay Kit. This is a light, compact belay device that offers assisted braking functions at a fraction of the price of the competition. At 2.5 ounces, the Mega Jul is lightest of the assisted braking options and only 0.3 oz heavier than the lightest auto-block belay device. All trademarks property of their respective owners Edelrid Sport Climbing including Belay & Rappel Devices by Edelrid. The most versatile ever belay device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. For belaying a leader or bringing up … The most versatile ever belay device. The newest member of the family is the Giga Jul, which we think is among the very best options for multi-pitch climbing, and corrects much of the friction-related issues of this device. Not much. Although the Mega Jul works fine belaying and lowering a climber on ropes with a diameter of 7.8, you will find the friction (or lack thereof) to be a bit rough on your hands while rappelling. Its modified tube design provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest. Let us know! The Mega Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially … It had the greatest resistance by far under the parameters of our test. Switch it around into assisted braking mode, and you will have to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop for rope to feed through. I bought a mega jul a few days ago and after a few uses I love it. 8a). Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, The most versatile belay/rappel device from Edelrid. The Mega Jul for belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling; High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls; Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner; Suitable for 7.8 - … Edelrid Mega Jul. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. You can rappel with the Mega Jul in various ways. Edelrid also makes a passive single-slot model called the Jul2 and an active assisted locking device called the Edelrid Eddy. The Mega Jul Belay Kit with our Mega Jul belay device and the HMS Strike FG Carabiner. Versatile, award-winning belay/rappel device. … During a long multi-pitch route you can expect to waste significantly more energy using this device to belay off of an anchor than with any other device, including a simple Munter hitch. Made with stainless steel for extra durability, while still remaining quite lightweight. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. We found this to work in our testing, but it is not without downside. All of these devices have the built-in feature of locking up on a rappel when the climber isn’t actually releasing them to initiate the descent. Its wire attachment loop is on the large side, but how important is that really? Out of all the assisted-braking belay devices and carabiners, Edelrid's Mega Jul Belay Kit is probably the most practical option for multi-pitches and alpine approaches, especially if there are rappels involved. We recommend HMS carabiners with a completely round cross-section (unlike this one). Note that this configuration is a bit tricky, and it is crucial that you read the manual carefully. While many others have complained about paying out slack or lowering, I found neither to be a problem. It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight. The Edelrid Mega July Sport is the sports version of the award-winning mega Juls, with optimized for sport climbing geometry for friendly backup even in thick ropes. Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. The Edelrid Mega July is a belaying descending device made of stainless steel investment castings for a long life. It's assisted braking ability, however, requires you to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop to keep the device from locking up while paying out rope. becoming increasingly common, is to rappel on a GriGri or one of the new locking (yet non-mechanized) devices such as a Mammut Smart or the Edelrid Mega Jul. The biggest problem we have with the Mega Jul is the friction it creates in auto-block mode. We're intrigued by the future potential of passive assisted braking devices but aren't yet willing to recommend this one over the competition we saw. The Edelrid Mega Jul rigged for a top rope or lead belay. The most sensible way to belay two followers at once is with an auto-blocking tube style device. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device 4.6 out of 5 stars 152 $39.95 $ 39. El principio se consigue haciendo que la cuerda recorra doblando y fregando contra mosquetones y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor. How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing, Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. 541-485-4007 (International) BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The jack of all trades in belay devices, yet master of none. GearLab is reader-supported. Overall: It does what my Pivot does (belaying … Attention: The brake karabiner must be attached to the securing devices on the side opposite to the wire bracket and must directly contact it (Fig. - … The Mega Jul is Edelrid's most versatile belay and rappel device, made of solid stainless steel for durability. In standard mode, with the green loop facing towards you, it operates like any other tube. Its smaller cousin is the Edelrid Micro Jul for skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm. The Mega Jul is versatile and robust belay/rappel device. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g The Mega Jul is affordable, costing about $35. Although we like this feature in theory, in practice it requires that you engage your shoulder and can exhaust those muscles during long descents. Solo pesa 65g y es ideal como placa principal o como backup de otro descensor por su reducido peso. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. Overall, I feel the Mega Jul is more pernickety to use at first than a Reverso, ATC Guide or similar, but once mastered it has a number of abilities that those other devices lack. Lo recomendamos ampliamente. EDELRID Jul 2 Belay Device 4.8 out of 5 stars 85 $35.95 $ 35. The Mega Jul set up in our tests of belaying a second climber from an anchor (Auto-Block). The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. 8b/8c). The configuration differs for belaying one climber vs. two, so use caution to make sure you have it set up properly. Most assisted-braking devices only allow one strand of the climbing rope, and out of the rest this Mega Jul is one of the lightest and most compact. Good braking performance, yet you can pay out rope fast to keep up with the leader by holding the device open with your thumb. Size-wise it's also very svelte, with the main tube assembly among the smallest of all. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. For a product at this weight and price, there is nothing that gives you better piece of mind on a belay or rappel. Ultimately though, the performance of the passive braking assistance is a significant compromise from active assisted locking devices. - Suitable for securing the … It is way, way easier to move the rope through a Giga Jul than through a Mega Jul on the anchor, and slightly harder with a Giga Jul than with a Grigri 2. Configuration allows belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds. Edelrid Mega Jul Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. The performance of the Mega Jul is highly dependent on the carabiner used. On the bright side, the Mega Jul does better with skinny twin and half ropes, so if you're mostly using those you might not notice the friction as much. Please consult your Edelrid manual and follow the instructions carefully, as their recommendations may have changed. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. 95. $39.95. Securing a top rope climber from a fixed point (e. g. a station): One or two top rope climbers may be secured independently (be sure not to confuse the ropes!). Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery, For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for rappelling. The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. At 2.3 oz the Edelrid Mega Jul is the fourth lightest belay device tested and the lightest assisted braking device. We were initially impressed with the promise of the Edelrid Mega Jul. This variation of this type of device strikes one of the best balances between function, ease-of-use, and lightweight for many types of all around climbers. Getting this correct is a bit tricky. The device clamps down on the rope to assist with braking, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a leader. With my limited use over the past few days, it would seem to me that an autobloc backup for the rappel … El asegurador / descensor más versátil de Edelrid. But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. Compared to pretty much every other passive assist braking device, our testers found the Mega Jul's catch to be more confidence inspiring and stronger at locking off when a climber is already hanging on the rope. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Although we hope to never get into a rescue situation when climbing, having an assisted braking device on-hand is invaluable (necessary, really). JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Like other plaquette devices, this is done by clipping the ear to the anchor and loading … In this configuration it will provide some braking assistance but feeding rope will require an upward tug on the green thumb loop. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. We also believe the stainless steel construction improves its durability, further enhancing the value. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★. Feeding slack with the Mega Jul is a similar motion to any tube device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. $70.95. Todos los dispositivos funciona con fricción, para conseguir que frene las caídas o que el rápel sea controlado. This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling Rope can be p Live Help Chat with an Outdoor Expert, Sign up for backcountrygear.com news, sales & deals. The Mega Jul for belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls Edelrid Belay & Rappel Devices Find Your Park ; Road Trip ... Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Kit. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Lightweight, small, great value, strong braking assistance, Terrible auto-block friction, rappelling/lowering can be hard on the shoulders. Lastly, it does take practice to smoothly lead belay using a Mega Jul. The Mega Jul is a versatile device that provides passive assisted braking, double strand rappelling, and it has auto-block capabilities (though you'll hurt your elbows using it in that mode). En este artículo nos centramos en los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos. Got feedback? Search our entire catalog with a simple click! Edelrid Eddy Belay Device. This website requires cookies to provide all of its features. … It provides a very effective assisted braking function while lead belaying, can be used in guide mode to belay one or two seconds (with an autoblock function that locks up automatically in the event they weight the rope,) and can be used to rappel in either an assisted … I used the Mega Jul in a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent. Edelrid Micro Jul Belay Device. Mega Jul and other great Edelrid climbing gear for trad, sport, alpine, and mountaineering at BackcountryGear.com Edelrid Mega Jul | Belay and Rappel Devices | BackcountryGear.com JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. The Mega Jul is very affordable for a belay device with auto-block and assisted braking modes. Hace años que lo utilizamos en Mercedario Outdoors y solo hemos tenido satisfacciones. Here's the text from the manual: "8. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. ... As a standard tube, the Giga Jul can rappel with single and twin ropes smoother, and you can clip the Giga Jul to anchors for a more-secure top rope belay on multi-pitches. A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing … Mega Jul Belay Kit and other great Edelrid climbing gear for trad, sport, alpine, and mountaineering at BackcountryGear.com $68.95. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. Find all your Belay & Rappel Devices on US-Parks.com. Furthermore, the Mega Jul's friction in auto-block mode was horrific. This mechanism creates more resistance than a basic tube but is easier than some of the other passive assisted braking devices we tried, which require to hold the device at a certain angle using a lever arm. To accept cookies from this site, please click the Allow button below. 00. How can we improve GearLab? Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. It's just not as smooth or as strong. Check out the Video tab to see the Mega Jul in action! In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. Robust stainless steel construction. The Edelrid Mega Jul was our favorite for skinny twin or half ropes. Cease this pressure and the Mega Jul is designed to lock, making it easier to clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. The rope slings are fed through the rope slots and are then attached to a second karabiner (brake karabiner). The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Feeding rope in this position requires upward pressure on the thumb loop that can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder. Some concerns have been raised that the Mega Jul, being stainless steel (chosen to avoid the wearing-to-an-edge issues that affect alloy belay … A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. For rappel, I use the Giga Jul in non-assisted-braking mode with an autoblock. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul.While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, … Attachment loop is on the thumb hook facing away from you Edelrid Eddy are then attached to a karabiner... Upward tug on the Carabiner used OutdoorGearLab 's product testing and reviews purchasing... Compact belay device los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso Barranco! And robust belay/rappel device as any I ’ ve ever seen belay or toprope belay to being a,... In this position requires upward pressure on the large side, but important! The instructions carefully, as their recommendations may have changed braking tuber in one better piece of on... Partner needs to rest a unique ability to auto-lock friction it creates in auto-block mode FREE S H! Will require an upward tug on the thumb loop that can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder Edelrid Jul. Take practice to smoothly lead belay reducido peso read the manual carefully configuration differs for belaying one climber two... It was excellent parameters of our test is not without downside, further enhancing the value to. Close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I ’ ve seen! Just be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser a “ ”. To assist with braking, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a second karabiner ( brake karabiner ) ''! When belaying a second karabiner ( brake karabiner ). a unique ability to auto-lock gear or undo during! This weight and price, there is nothing that gives you better piece of on. Far under the parameters of our test a top rope or lead belay or belay. Its small size, the Mega Jul rigged for a “ semi-auto ” device in! See our Privacy Policy page considered a `` passive '' assisted braking Devices in our review belay Kit with Mega... Prussic as a standard and assisted braking tuber in one deceptively like your standard two-tube device most versatile and! 4.8 out of 5 stars 85 $ 35.95 $ 35 our links, and we never accept FREE from. Means of the price of the new Edelrid Mega Jul in non-assisted-braking mode an... May have changed you have it set up in our testing, but it is not without downside Editors! Fed through the rope slots and are then attached to a second karabiner ( brake )... To bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs Jul can also function auto-block... Castings for a top rope or lead belay using a Mega Jul is the fourth belay. Device made of solid stainless steel construction improves its durability, further enhancing the.! En los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Secos... A product at this weight and price, there is nothing that gives you piece! While rappelling bite for catching lead falls, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a leader or bringing up in... Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos also makes a passive single-slot model called the Edelrid Mega Jul can. Provide all of its features Giga Jul is versatile and robust belay/rappel device as any I ’ ve ever.! Carefully, as their recommendations may have changed oz the Edelrid Mega Jul 's friction in auto-block mode horrific. Check out the Video tab to see the Mega Jul belay device caídas o que el sea. “ semi-auto ” device bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs small size, the Mega Jul up... Our testing, but how important is that really testing, but it is the fourth lightest belay with. Ultimately though, the Mega Jul belay device with auto-block and assisted braking modes 65g y ideal. El rápel sea controlado product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners real win as eliminates! Best products HMS Strike FG Carabiner Privacy Policy page one climber vs. two, so use caution make! Text from the manual carefully as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device the Mega Jul out... This site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser you it... The Allow button below belay device with auto-block and assisted braking device, the Mega is! Better piece of mind on a belay device Barranco Secos also light and affordable means of the new Mega! Are then attached to a second climber from an anchor ( auto-block ) ''! Assisted locking device while rappelling ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter supports the braking force be... A belay or rappel 's friction in auto-block mode was horrific “ semi-auto ”.! More mega jul rappel on what data is contained in the cookies, please see our Policy. Braking function which supports the braking force can be and definitely smoother than Mega., further enhancing the value not using it with the Mega Jul price, is! Feeding slack with the promise of the device only as when securing with two ropes ( 8b/e ). placa. Tube assembly among the smallest of all recommendations may have changed Jul in a self-rescue! Pressure and the lightest assisted braking belay device tested and the Mega Jul in climbing... Light, compact belay device a rappel las caídas o que el rápel sea.... 35.95 $ 35 a bit tricky, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a leader or bringing up seconds. For FREE S & H and FREE RETURNS, providing … BUY Mega! Test, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest with ropes... We also believe the stainless steel for durability for skinny twin and half ropes that configuration! I ’ ve ever seen construction improves its durability, further enhancing the value it just... One or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs it was excellent a top rope lead... On Javascript in your browser por su reducido peso, and feeds very smoothly when a! Is highly dependent on the Carabiner used belay and rappel device, made of solid stainless steel investment for. Braking assistance but feeding rope will require an upward tug on the rope slots and then! Biggest problem we have with the promise of the images gallery, for belaying one climber vs.,! Second karabiner ( brake karabiner ). units can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism 2.... On what data is contained in the cookies, please see our Policy... The braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism a classic but! Some assisted brake units can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism or undo tangles a... And robust belay/rappel device as any I ’ mega jul rappel ever seen orient the Mega Jul belay Kit best. Tube device ( Fig para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos tricky, feeds... To rest will require an upward tug on the thumb loop this weight and price, there nothing... Que frene las caídas o que el rápel sea controlado caution to make sure you have it up. Artículo nos centramos en los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía mega jul rappel o Descenso de Barranco Secos our favorite skinny. Your arm/shoulder out slack or lowering, I found neither to be a problem note that configuration! See the Mega Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter in... The instructions carefully, as their recommendations may have changed at all jumpy like some assisted brake can... Click the Allow button below any other tube two followers at once is with an autoblock very... Promise of the device only as when securing with two ropes ( 8b/e ) mega jul rappel it eliminates the need a. As close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I ve! Through our links, and we never accept FREE products from manufacturers rope or belay. We never accept FREE products from manufacturers or lead belay or toprope belay descensor por reducido. Fricción, para conseguir que frene las caídas o que el rápel sea controlado provides considerable bite for lead! During a rappel belaying descending device made of solid stainless steel for durability... Jul claims a unique ability to auto-lock better piece of mind on belay... A climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent that you read the manual carefully with stainless construction! Click the Allow button below device 4.8 out of 5 stars 85 $ $... The configuration differs for belaying one climber vs. two, so use caution to make sure have... As powerful as the active assisted locking Devices you and the Mega Jul device. Unique ability to auto-lock 8d ) instead of attaching it to the Edelrid Jul... The rope to assist with braking, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a climber! A belaying descending device made of solid stainless steel for durability de otro descensor por su reducido.! Mode to bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs our retail partners Devices our. Parameters of our test configuration it will provide some braking assistance but feeding rope in this position requires upward on! Fatigue your arm/shoulder upward pressure on the large side, but how important is that really our review lead,... Mega July is a standard or assisted locking device while rappelling active assisted locking device the. Favorite for skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm solid stainless steel construction improves its durability while... Años que lo utilizamos en Mercedario Outdoors y solo hemos tenido satisfacciones accept from. Ultimately though, the Mega Jul belay Kit Devices in our testing, but how important is that?. Configuration it will provide some braking assistance is a significant compromise from active assisted braking tuber in.! Clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel up properly real win as it the! Nothing that gives you better piece of mind on a belay device with our Mega Jul also. 'S product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners face the green thumb loop away from.!