The GiGi … Then it is far better and easier to lower the second in guide mode then any other guide device except the Alpine Up which is even easier to operate. The DMM Belay Master 2 is one of six belay-specific lockers that we've tested. Get FREE SHIPPING with $50 minimum purchase. Lightweight, ease of releasing the assisted braking function, belays thin ropes well, Cons: Once the seconding climber begins climbing again after a fall, the belayer simply pulls (sometimes hard) the pinched rope out from the V-shaped groove and all is well. Higher friction when belaying thick ropes. Very surprised this isnt used in the US more often, Reviewed in the United States on June 15, 2017, Great product and a much more easy to use version of the ATC guide. DMM do recommend using the Pivot with their newish Rhino HMS krab. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. Shop DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set + Free Shipping over $49. When weighted, the climber's end pinches the brake-end and keeps the climber from falling. Versatile, functional and innovative, the new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. Because I have a quiver of belay devices, I have the privilege to choose the right device for my day of climbing. This device's pivoting ring is very nice for belaying from the top. Quality construction. Features Suitable for 7.3 - 11mm ropes, it's optimized for 8mm - 10.5mm ropes. When I was using the Pivot in "guide mode" (a term referring to the assisted braking function) and releasing the brake to lower a second, the Pivot performed exceptionally well and better than the Reverso, ATC Guide and other devices. Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2019. Future I believe there is still room for improvement in dual mode devices. The DMM Pivot is a versatile, functional and innovative belay device that caters for modern belay techniques with modern ropes. Perfect for alpine, winter and multi-pitch trad climbs.5031290208703 It still does an effective job and securing the gate closure, as well as preventing cross-loading or 'biner rotation, but simply doesn't do these things as simply and effectively as the other competition. BEST USE: SPORT, … Some devices simply locked up and did not lower at all. This is the best of several devices when it comes to belaying two seconds simultaneously off an anchor. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. The design of the Pivot's rope channels (the two holes where a bight of rope goes through) is similar to the Petzl Reverso 4 and quite different from the Black Diamond ATC Guide. Login with your username and password below. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DMM The Pivot - at Amazon.com. Disabling it will result in some disabled or missing features. Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. That means tie off the rope with a munter and be sure to tie off the second that you don't want to lower in case have two seconds and you end up lowering both. Shop DMM Pivot | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot + Free Shipping over $49. 1 of 3 new belay devices for 2015, the DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. It may be necessary to use a backup on the brake-side of the rope to ensure control. Note: Manufacturers and guides recommend some type of back-up to be in place before releasing the assisted braking function, such as an autoblock on the brake rope attached to the belayer. New User? The Pivot is well-designed, highly functional, and has become my go-to device. Used the pivot at the gunks last weekend and it will be my go to device for belaying followers now. Customer Review Customer Review & Up 5 stars and up & Up 4 stars and up & Up 3 stars and up & Up 2 stars and up ... DMM Pivot Belay Package. You can release the Pivot with just your fingers unless the second's full weight is hanging on the rope, but if you use your nut tool you will have very smooth control in any case. Live Chat Contact Check Order Status. Overall, I found the Pivot to be a solid piece of equipment, and until a plaquette style belay/rappel device comes out that is light, requires little effort to belay in guide mode, belays both thin and thick ropes well, releases from an assisted brake with ease, and belays and rappels smoothly, the DMM Pivot will stand as a gold-standard item. Mike Lewis guides Anthill Direct (5.9-) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, using the DMM Pivot belay device [Photo] Peter Braam, Pros: The DMM Pivot belay device is a unique pivot-style belay device that has all the advantages of a standard plate, but uses an innovative system that allows for full and complete control and management of the rope whilst in guide mode. Flat plaquettes such as the Gigi and the Ovo create noticeably less friction and are a guide's best friend—but they do not belay from below or rappel as well. A combination of design features allows for good control and a smooth lower. Description of DMM Pivot Belay Device Red. Reviews It is almost boring to say, but I can t really think of anything about the DMM Pivot that I don t like. In the modern climbing era it's become regular practice on multipitch routes to belay from above with a belay device that has an assisted-braking function. I love DMM for a number of reasons. The set-up to lower a second using the DMM Pivot. With similar operation to the more common Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso, the Pivot offers controlled, smooth lowering of your partner. Providing smooth rope control and a secure and confident catch, the Pivot Belay Device from DMM is a revolutionary device which uses a pivot solution to ensure rope release with less force and gain greater control when lowering. Here's a longer and more detailed review about the DMM Pivot (written by an AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide) And like most climbing techniques, it's a better show than to tell. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. Works great for belaying from the top. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Pulling on the brake end of the rope or the carabiner can make the carabiner do the above-mentioned 180-degree twist, which completely releases the braking mechanism of the device. This is the whole point of the pivot feature and it works very well. Weight: 6.1 oz. Edited to add: Rappelling and belaying in non guide mode is the same as with other tube style belay devices. The new DMM Pivot Belay Device caters modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. The pivot only affects lowering in guide mode. Mike Lewis, M.A. However, I've been encouraging climbers who plan to use it in guide mode to give it a try. Here's what to do. There's a problem loading this menu right now. My experience totally agrees with yours. Top subscription boxes – right to your door, See all details for DMM Pivot Belay Device, © 1996-2020, Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. We then choose a shorter list for in-depth research and testing before finalizing our top picks. Great product. Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2018. The Pivot is made by DMM, a small company in Wales that makes pretty good quality climbing gear, maybe the best quality climbing gear. The Pivot and Reverso's channels are shorter in length and thinner in width than the ATC Guide. Rope-pinch happens relatively often when a seconding climber falls and abruptly pulls his/her rope into the V-Shaped groove to the side of the brake-end of the rope. This is no small feat and DMM is justified in singing its praises. Check great and honest reviews! Most climbers I've seen use the BD ATC Guide, having never heard of the DMM Pivot. Yes, the Pivot is the best yet. Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2020, Pivot is sweet and Biner hole for leverage is more, Reviewed in the United States on November 8, 2019. Enjoy easy rope control when you're on belay with the lightweight DMM Pivot belay device, especially when you're lowering in guide mode. See the American Alpine Club's Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2016, Fall on Rock: Lowering Error, P. 63. On the flip side, the added friction is not something I necessarily want because of the increased tendency to develop elbow tendonitis and shoulder injuries from pulling the ropes through the device. I practiced releasing the brake using carabiners, nut tools, and redirected slings with one and two climbers at a time, and lowering climbers full pitch lengths. I'm glad to see its use trickling down to other lead climbers. These are the products we considered that ultimately didn't make our top 5. Start about 5:30 to see the anchor set up and how the “pivot” release works. Learn more about Mike at LunchboxJackson.com. The manufacturers of these devices recommend keeping a brake hand on the rope while belaying and catching a fall, hence the proper phrase used for these devices—"assisted braking" rather than "self-locking." During more than six months of guiding, climbing, and ski-mountaineering in diverse alpine and rock environments in Colorado, Alaska, Canada, France, Italy, and Switzerland, I compared the Pivot to other popular belay devices (especially the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide) in a variety of situations such as toproping, crevasse rescue, belayed skiing into steep couloirs, top-belaying multiple climbers at a time on multipitch rock and alpine climbs, rappelling, and rock rescue practice. Every customer review that gets added to our site will be a huge help for future customers who are deciding on their next purchase. I first saw these while climbing in the UK and wow, I am bummed I bought a BD Belay before buying this. Releasing the brake using leverage with a nut tool (multiple sizes of nut tools worked, which is not true for all devices on the market), a carabiner, or redirected sling required noticeably less bicep effort and manipulation than other devices. The DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. For folks like myself who are climbing more than twenty days per month, and who are often doing the majority of leading and then belaying one or two seconding climbers from above, this is a big deal. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, … Review: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show . Petzl GriGri. When you're belaying a following climber off the anchor from the top of a pitch, these devices assist your brake hand by directing the climber's end of the rope into the device above the brake-end of the rope as it comes back out. The DMM Pivot on the other hand is easier to reverse and allows for a smooth lower. DMM is a class brand and I wish there was more of it here on the west coast of the US! The ropes run upward a bit easier than any of the devices except the Kong GiGi, but it doesn't have the worry about the rope twisting around and releasing itself that requires a special effort when the GiGi is used with a single second. Reviewed in the United States on January 12, 2020, Better than any guided device I've used! Reviewed in the United States on August 16, 2019. The megaJul is way more versatile and has the "autoblock" feature. The Pivot provides smooth paying out, a secure and confident catch, and controlled lowering. With a thin-enough rope the weighted climber-side of the rope can slip to the side of the brake-end and get pinched in the rope channel; with a simple 180-degree twist of the carabiner, the assisted brake will release—not good. The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. Great belay device. If the pinch is stuck enough, the released brake won't help, which then encourages the belayer to get burly with the device, pulling on whatever they can to get the pinch to release. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. Love the DMM pivot for belaying from above!! Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations, Select the department you want to search in, Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2016. For most weekend warriors multipitch climbing in a team of two, this is not a concern. The GiGi … Nice review! With all of that said, rope pinch-and-twist can happen with surprising ease on the ATC Guide and the flat plaquettes compared to the Pivot, simply due to the difference in the width of the channels. The DMM Pivot is an assisted-braking belay device that works well for top-belaying a climber directly from the anchor, as shown here. The BestReviews editorial team researches hundreds of products based on consumer reviews, brand quality, and value. Black Diamond Vision MIPS Helmet: Head protection that's as light and effective as ever, Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ion sunglasses: High quality with a big, bold style, Scarpa Ribelle HD: Boots that can keep up in the mountains, The Beal Opera: An 8.5mm rope that is as strong and waterproof as it is light. Top notch products, great customer service, and perhaps best of all, enormous attention to detail and quality. You definitely have to add a little more force when belaying or rapping with the Ice Floss, but the overall lightness and efficiency is worth the extra effort and attention. On the positive side, the Pivot (and Reverso) offers more friction and holding power than the ATC Guide, especially when you're using thinner ropes, 9.2mm in diameter and smaller (DMM says the Pivot can be used for ropes 7.3mm to 11mm). You clearly described the guide-belay function (not easy) and the relative qualities of every device on the market. Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2016. I specifically choose the Pivot when I am belaying from above using ropes less than 9.2mm in diameter, and when I know rappels will be part of the descent. Excellent, light-weight, guide mode functions well. In common-speak, we are talking about "auto-locking" or "self-locking" plate devices such as the DMM Pivot. The Rhino might be a great krab, but I wouldn’t worry too much about not having one if you do pick the Pivot. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. Style: Brake Assist. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. The GiGi is a major struggle to release, and then it lets go all at once. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. It basically operates like any other ATC with friction grooves until you have to lower the second. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. The DMM Pivot is a better mouse trap and advances the state of the art. So how did they do it? [Photo] Peter Braam. DMM Pivot Belay Package. The Pivot's swiveling loop allows its angle to adjust to increase the ease of releasing the brake and lowering a seconding climber from an anchor above. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. Guide plates have traditionally been difficult to operate when lowering seconds. Rope Size: 8.9 mm - 11.0 mm. The DMM Pivot is a uniquely functional belay device that offers guide mode belaying options and is compatible with a wide range of climbing ropes.. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in … Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. Lowering was very easy and smooth. The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in shape and design. Mike has been guiding and instructing for 23 years throughout the U.S. and internationally. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. The Pivot has become a regular tool in my guiding and climbing. I used it with DMM Belay Master HMS and some old Wild Country HMS because those are the krabs I have, but it worked flawlessly with both. Try the new Pivot belay device from DMM. However, if said fallen climber wants to be lowered, the belayer will initiate a release of the brake by levering the device with a carabiner, nut tool or a redirected sling. I bought a Pivot about six months ago, the first time I noticed the new device, because its advantages seemed mechanically obvious after half a lifetime of guiding with every evolving design of "self-locking" — OK, "assisted braking," with a tip of the helmet to conservative language — belay devices going all the way back to the Gigi, which changed my guiding style forever and for the better. It provides optimum performance both belaying from the harness and directly from the anchor in guide mode. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. UKC When there is a problem and you want things to run smoothly, the DMM Pivot will really help. Description of DMM The Pivot Red. I had been using and loving the Petzl Reverso until the Pivot appeared. Here's a video that shows how to use the DMM Pivot. Learn: About Us Policies Reviews Blog How To. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. Another consideration related to the design of the rope channels is "rope pinch and twist," a situation that can happen when a single follower weights the rope while being belayed in guide mode. is an AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide living in Estes Park, Colorado. Mike Lewis demonstrates how to lower a climber while in "guide mode" with the DMM Pivot: The belayer can set up a sling to pull back the carabiner on the rope and release the friction on the brake-end of the rope, allowing it to slide through the device while maintaining control with the brake hand. DMM International Ltd; Y Glyn, Llanberis, Gwynedd, Wales, ... Versatile, functional and innovative the Pivot is a state-of-the-art belay device catering for modern belay techniques with the latest ropes. I have found that the Pivot works OK even with the 7.2 mm Ice Floss, though it is slightly thinner than the Pivot's recommended lower range of 7.3 mm diameter. Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. Accepting ropes 7.5mm – 11mm it’s tied for the widest rope range of all the guide-mode tubular devices (same as Petzl’s Reverso 4 and Simond’s Tucan 2).DMM does add that the Pivot is optimized for ropes 8mm – 10.5mm, which is a nice way of saying ropes larger than 10.5mm may need to be squished into the device and they won’t feed quite as smoothly. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee. And you taught me several new tricks that I look forward to trying out — like leveraging the nut tool — while emphasizing modern techniques such as using and trusting the trend toward skinnier ropes. The Pivot is a guide belay plate with a bit of a difference, with improved lowering abilities. Select Your Cookie Preferences. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. Shop for DMM at REI. While it used to be our Top Pick for this purpose, it is no longer the one that we recommend as our favorite. This page works best with JavaScript. Plenty of instruction on YouTube. On today's Gear Show we were lucky enough to have a DMM expert to talk to. Top quality, great selection and expert advice. In real-time scenarios and improvised testing stations at my local climbing gym, in the field, and at my home, I tested the efficiency and ease of releasing the various assisted braking systems. Find great deals on premium clothing and gear from DMM. BUY DMM Pivot Belay Device and Rhino Set. Enjoy Free Shipping during the holidays!